If you are thinking of buying a turtle for the first time, consider a yellow bellied slider. This slider, easily recognized by its yellow belly, is the best species for beginning turtle keepers, as is its relative, the red-eared slider. They have a high rate of survival in captivity, and have been a part of the pet turtle industry for six decades. These turtles are cute and appealing, and, unlike other species of turtles, they are easy to keep, with very basic requirements. They need only clean water in sufficient quantity, proper lighting and air temperature, a healthy diet, and separate areas for swimming, drying, and basking. These species of turtles are heavy baskers; thus, they need a separate area where they can get full sun.

The yellow-bellied slider, which reaches a shell length of 8 to 10 inches, can be housed indoors. For hatchlings, use an aquarium that can hold 15 gallons of water. On the other hand, an adult yellow belly must be enclosed in a 60-gallon (or larger) aquarium. Add 20 gallons for each additional turtle in the same tank.   See it’s photo

Young Yellow Belly Slider

The turtles belonging to this family are not picky in their diet. They are omnivorous; although the mature female of this breed is mostly herbivorous, and the male, whether mature or quite young, is mostly carnivorous. They follow an aquatic plant and live prey diet, eating water lilies, small feeder fish, worms, insects, (such as crickets), and carrion. To complete their diet, provide them with commercial turtle food and chopped vegetables.

Hatchlings of this particular turtle species start out brightly colored, but this soon fades, transforming into duller hues. The upper shell is green. The plastron is colored yellow, with a small, irregular, greenish spot on each front scale. Generally, the head, tail, and limbs are green. Viewed from above they appear almost round.

Native to the southeastern United States, yellow bellied sliders have a life span of 40 years or more. Generally, they are hardy creatures. Nevertheless, any turtle can get illnesses if their owners do not provide them with proper and knowledgeable care. Remember, a pet turtle requires a balanced diet to avoid nutritionally-based illnesses. Calcium is important for the yellow belly, especially the baby turtles and ovulating females.

When handling yellow bellied turtles, always remember that their shells are a part of their skin, so be gentle! If you hurt them, they will nip or bite hard. For this reason, proper handling is essential! Let them feel secure by holding small turtles with your fingers, or a hand on each side of the shell if the turtle is large. Focus is a necessity when holding it. Make sure your fingers are away from its mouth! Although they can be safely handled, it is best, whenever possible, to leave them by themselves.

Turtle ownership should be a happy experience for novice turtle keepers. It should not provide the owners with too much hardship. The key, therefore, is to make informed decisions. If you are looking to buy your first turtle, take the time to do the research, so that you will enjoy your new turtle pets or, pet for years to come.

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Red Eared Slider Turtle

Aside from its fast swimming capacity, this turtle is known to be rather tame. However, you should still be very careful when approaching or handling this turtle, as it may bite!

Red eared sliders are quite easily identifiable because of their distinct green skin and brightly yellow stripes. The red coloration found behind each of its eyes on the sides of its head is the reason why this species got its name “red-eared.” The hatchlings are easily spotted, as they have the same colors as the adults-dark green shells with various hues of yellow and lighter greens. Their breeding period is from March to June, and unlike other species which are close to extinction, the red ear slider population is growing.

This turtle prefers a habitat with quiet, muddy water with lots of surrounding vegetation. You will hardly ever see these turtles in moving bodies of water. They also spend a lot of time basking in the sun. Keep this in mind when placing logs or other similar material in your indoor turtle tank. It is best to have a large turtle tank, or even an outdoor pond if possible for their housing, since their shells can grow up to 12 inches in length. A good formula to keep in mind to assure the correct amount of space for your turtle is: 1 inch in the length of your pet red ear slider = 10 gallons in your tank’s size. So, for example, a 4” turtle requires at least a 40 gallon tank. This type of turtle is considered a messy eater, therefore you must see to it that you have regular and proper filtration done to clean and maintain the water quality of their tanks. Good water quality is necessary, essential to ensuring the health of your red ear slider turtle, and all other species of turtles as well.

Another essential requirement for all turtles is proper feeding.  For your red eared sliders, ensure that you give them the proper kinds of food in the right amounts. The young turtles must be fed daily, while the grownups are fed once every two or three days. This feeding schedule should be strictly followed. This species is known as omnivorous, which means that  they eat both vegetables and plants, as well as animal protein. Commercial foods such as pellets, trout chow, and sticks must be provided, and should not exceed 25% of its total diet. Not more than 25% of the turtle’s diet should be in the form of animal protein, such as earthworms, live feeder fish, chopped chicken and raw, lean beef. The remaining 50% must be composed of nutritious plants and vegetables.

Although you can purchase a red ear slider in a pet store, it is recommended that you adopt your pet turtle from agencies such as animal rescue centers. This is to ensure the health and safety of your pet. In pet stores, most turtles are housed in one overcrowded tank, which allows for rapid transmission of diseases that may not be easily noticed prior to purchase. Bear in mind that any types of turtles are potential carriers of salmonella. Hence, wash your hands before and immediately after touching your pet. Keep the turtles away from young children. Red eared sliders have a lifespan similar to that of the desert tortoise, ranging from 50 to 70 years.

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How to Hold a Turtle

It is best to note that you should stay focused when attempting to hold a turtle. Turning a turtle over should not be done quickly, as this  could cause pain to the turtle.   Allow at least two seconds to turn the turtle over.    Make sure that no extra movements are made, as they may cause stress to the turtle.   Never place your fingers between the turtle’s top and bottom shells, as the turtle may try to nip or bite them.

After holding the turtle, put it back to where it was slowly, but steadily.   If you are curious about how its bottom shell ( plastron)  looks  like, or if  you are checking the turtle  for an injury, rotate the turtle head over tail or tail over head—not side to side—to avoid coiling  its intestine.   More importantly, never turn the turtle 360-degrees — only a 180-degree rotation  is safe.   In addition, do not keep the turtle on its back.   This position may stress the turtle because it makes it feel extremely uncomfortable, out of control, and unsafe from its predators.    As a reminder as well, the shell of a turtle is a living tissue; thus it is  very sensitive.   Do not strike or scratch the shell against any surface to avoid injuring  the turtle.

If holding a soft-shelled turtle, try to avoid the back edge of the shell because it may result in permanent damage.    Moreover, apply the least amount of pressure  possible.   

How to Transport a Turtle

When transporting your turtle, prepare a plastic container that is neither too large nor too shallow when covered.   This will prevent  the turtle from moving around  in the container and possibly hurting itself.   If you have more than one turtle, prepare one container for each turtle. In this way, you will prevent your turtles from biting and clawing each other.   Also, create holes in the upper sides and lids  of each container to ensure enough ventilation for the turtle.  Make sure, though, that the holes you created are smooth. To serve as bedding,  place moist paper toweling or shredded newspaper inside the container.  Tie or tape the container lid shut, but avoid covering the ventilation holes.   More importantly, you have to make certain that turtles are kept at the right temperature. 

How to Pick Up a Turtle

There are only a few tips on the proper way to pick up the turtle.   First, use  both hands. Do not try to pick up the turtle with only one hand because it may bite, wiggle, kick, and/or  claw.  Second, place your hands on each side of the shell.   Third, and this is the most important, do not pick the turtle up by its tail because it may cause the animal severe pain.

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Turtle mating occurs in early to late spring, as well as, late summer to early autumn. More often, though, turtle mating comes after  hibernation.

In fact, this is the first thing that comes to their minds once they are out of hibernation. If you have more than one turtle in the same enclosure, make sure you separate them as they become aggressive when natural turtle mating instincts are taking place.   Here are two turtles “going at it”:

Two Copulating Turtles

Turtles begin their turtles mating ritual with the male starting to approach the female, sniffing closely around the cloacal region ( the common cavity into which the intestinal, genital, and urinary tracts open). The male turtle sometimes displays aggressive behavior, with frequent biting on the limbs and on the back of the neck of the prospective mate. Typically, the male will hurry over to a female and mount her. When established in mating position, the male uses its claws to hold the female around the edges of the carapace (shell). The female turtle, on the other hand, will continue with whatever she is doing. You will notice that she will not have any response. She looks just like a turtle basking or resting. Among tortoises and large turtles, the male will often moan or make other noises throughout the turtle mating process.

The eastern snake-necked turtle has been known to insert his hind feet into the opening between the carapace and plastron, on either side of the female’s tail. The feet are then locked into the position by making a twist vertically. The male turtle then proceeds to gently cuddle the female’s carapace with his front limbs. After acceptance he tends to free his front legs and float vertically while still assuming the mating position. One explanation behind this behavior is that the male eastern snake-necked turtle’s tail is somewhat small and this position may be essential for successful turtle mating.

Because turtles mating takes some time, it is likely the female will become impatient. She will move from one place to another, doing her own thing, while overthrowing the poor male turtle, or even dragging him around with her. The male turtle will not mind. As long as he can, he will try to continue and finish the mating process.

As the turtle keeper, it is your own responsibility to make sure that you have provided a nest where the female turtle can bury her eggs. Be vigilant. Once the eggs are out, make sure you have a screen or some type of protective covering available so that the eggs will not be damaged or attacked by predators. The key here is to provide a nesting area, which is either a box or a hole, 12 to 16 inches deep, filled with moist soil and sand.

Even in the absence of a male turtle, a female turtle can establish populations in new locations because she has the capacity to store sperm inside her body over winter or even longer.

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Once hatchlings have finally emerged out of their eggshells, you can place them in a shallow glass aquarium or plastic container.   Make sure it is filled with approximately two inches of  treated, aged, or filtered water.   However, a hatchling turtle can only be moved to larger quarters after it is four to six months of age.As a responsible turtle keeper, you must change the water daily to ensure the health of the hatchlings.    Also, increase the water level as the turtles grow; however, make sure that it is not too deep, to prevent the juveniles from drowning.    A  land area is also needed should they wish to leave the water and bask.    Remember, turtles, even hatchlings, need to warm themselves.

Do not forget to put a reptile fluorescent light tube either in the container or in the shallow glass aquarium.   Keep it on for 6 to 10 hours a day. Providing it is not too hot, ’sun’ the turtles for 10 to 20 minutes, two to three times a week.   Monitor them regularly.

Concerning the feeding of a hatchling turtle, the remnants of the yolk sac will continue to provide it with nourishment for the next few days, or  up to one week.   You will notice, though, that the hatchlings will start to show some interest in solid food from their third to fifth day.  Provide them with live food, such as bloodworms, daphnia (water fleas),  or mosquito wrigglers,  until the time they become familiar with feeding.   They should be given a variety of food every day for their first year.  Nutrafin® Tropical Fish Flakes recommended because they contain vitamin D3 and other important vitamins and minerals.

It is illegal to buy or sell turtles less than four inches unless they will be used for educational purposes.   Turtles can cause disease, especially to children and people who have weak immune systems.  Children also have the tendency to put things in their mouths, touch things and then  put their unwashed hands in their mouths.   Both pose a great risk because turtles can be the source of salmonella poisoning.  Salmonella is bacteria not seen by the naked eye.   It can cause human disease called salmonellosis, a serious infection of the gastrointestinal tract.  Many people  think that salmonellosis is  solely a food-borne disease;  but the truth is that salmonella aslo occurs naturally in reptiles, such as turtles.  Therefore, turtle owners should exercise extra caution when keeping and handling their turtle pets.

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Counting or determining turtle age has always been a question. Why? If the turtle came from the wild before it was bought and raised in captivity, who can tell the real age? If it was bought a few years after it was hatched, who can tell? Adult turtles look almost the same. Unlike humans, it is not easy to make a calculation of a turtle’s age.

It is almost impossible to tell the exact age of a turtle. Its age cannot be determined by the lines on its shell. Nevertheless, these lines can help in the estimation of turtle age. This is why people follow this method. However, this process of counting lines on  turtle’s shell can prove  inaccurate,  because the layers of carapace fall off through time.

On the other hand, turtle age can be determined in younger turtles through counting the growth rings on the upper shell.  However, this approach of turtle age determination is only precise until about 15 to 20 years of age.   As turtles mature, growth rings deteriorate and become difficult to distinguish.

For turtles, determination of their age is not necessary.  They do not mind if they are young, adult, or old.   For them, it is much better if, instead, they are allowed to reach and enjoy the maximum of their natural life.   They deserve their very long turtle life span. They have the right to exist on earth. People must value how they should be taken care of more than how their age should be counted.    Therefore, prospective turtle owners must first make informed decisions before buying their pets, while beginning turtle keepers must make an extra effort to learn how to provide their turtles  the ultimate in care.  Turtles  are not easy to care for.    They require proper housing, lighting, temperature, and cleaning among other things.

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To give you an idea of the ‘truth’ about keeping pet turtles and to gauge whether you are fit for the job, consult former and present turtle owners. You can ask them about the struggles they’ve had, as well as the fun brought by owning a turtle. This way, you will obtain first-hand information, especially on the ease and difficulty of turtle care. Inquire also about the strategies they apply in keeping their turtle pets, including housing, feeding and, more importantly, cost.   The owners can help you understand more of the information written in books. Lastly, you can also seek the advice of veterinarians.   These professionals will be able to advise you as how to best take care of your pet—at a fee, of course.

Once you have decided you want to continue with your plan, do not purchase a pet turtle yet. Consider preparing its housing first. Do you prefer indoor or outdoor housing? Or, does it need an indoor or outdoor habitat? Begin by  choosing the habitat best suited to your own living space. If you have enough space outdoors, opt for pet turtles that can be housed outdoors, like Russian Tortoises, Ornate Box Turtles, Three-Toed Box Turtles, and Red-Eared Sliders.  If you do not have sufficient outdoor space, consider selecting those that can stay indoors, like Flower-Back Turtles, Chinese Box Turtles, Malaysian Box Turtles, and any turtles from the Amazon River.

Your next concern: food.  Which pet turtle or tortoise is easy to feed? You must realize that these species have different dietary needs. Some prefer plants only, like water lilies and ferns; while others eat a selection of foods, including chopped chicken and raw meat. A box turtle, known as a picky eater is not the right one for you if you cannot afford to spend time and money looking for the foods suitable to its diet.  Look for another one that will not require you to spend more time thinking about its daily diet than you do for yourself!

When you are ready to make a purchase,  examine the pet turtle you wish to buy.   Make sure it is free from injury or any sickness.

Turtle-keeping will become a challenging and happy task for you if  you do things the correct way. If not, you will only lead an innocent species to an unhappy and miserable life because you made a purchase for the wrong reason. Think long and hard. 

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A balanced diet is very important for aquatic turtles. Any fish is appropriate for its diet: goldfish, guppies, trout, bait minnows, and smelt. However, to avoid the transfer of parasites, do not forget to freeze fish for more than three days prior to serving.  Older mice are the best source of calcium for the shell growth of aquatic turtles while mouse liver is their best source of Vitamin A.   Commercial diets, such as trout chow,  an also be eaten,  but in small amounts, and should be softened. Insects are also good, but best if fed with calcium-rich diets to boost calcium content.  Moreover, the widely available and nutritious earth worms and night crawlers are fine, but small aquatic turtles need them chopped.

Most  red-eared sliders are carnivorous when young, but eventually become herbivorous as they grow. Mud turtles and softshell turtles are both carnivorous. Softshell turtles eat commercial trout or catfish food.  Meanwhile, captive-bred painted turtles necessitate a diet of about 25% meat, 20% or so of turtle pellets, and the balance of fresh greens and vegetables.

Semi-aquatic turtles eat small amounts of vegetables, meat, fish (preferably live and particularly whole), worms, snails (whole, including  the shell), small frogs, baby mice, and floating  turtle food pellets.   Terrestrial turtles, on the other hand, require nutrients provided in both animals and plant matters. A diet of 85% vegetables, 10% fruits, and 5% animal protein is recommended. Brightly-colored berries and vegetables, such as strawberries, raspberries, and tomatoes, among others, can also be fed. Vegetables with a high calcium-to-phosphorus ratio are suggested for feeding rather than those with a lower value.

Grassland tortoises enjoy grasses and  leafy greens.  Among the favorite foods of tortoises are soaked alfalfa pellets, timothy hay, other grass hay, alfalfa hay, clover, dandelion, mulberry, grape leaves, and flowers, such as roses, carnations, and hibiscus.   African spurred tortoises, on the other hand, require a high fiber diet. They also enjoy mixed salads of greens and vegetables every day. You must make sure, though, that there is a sprinkle of calcium on the salad from time to time. Serve fruits only in moderation; melon, apple, and other fruits during hot summers, but only once every 10 days to 2 weeks. Avoid any dog food or cat food.

After reading this article, you will begin to understand that  feeding  a  turtle  is not easy,  but it can be an enjoyable task.  The secret here is to ensure that you are always well-informed.

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Wrong.  These species are not suitable to become a family pet.
Mini turtles are not for children—even with parental supervision.   They can cause disease, especially to children who have weak immune systems. Children also have the tendency to put things in their mouths or put their unwashed hands in their mouths.   Both pose a great risk because turtles can be the source of salmonella poisoning.   See a photo of a baby turtle below:

A baby water turtle fits in the palm of your hand

Certainly, turtles carry salmonella, bacteria that can be easily transmitted even through casual contact.  This is the reason mini turtles are only suitable  for responsible adults.  Older children, about 10 years of age and older, can still hold and feed them, but only with adult supervision.   Make sure, however, that proper hand washing is done after touching them, because a casual contact with turtles, or to its environment, can make a person sick with salmonellosis.  One infected  person,  can  then easily  and quickly transmit these germs to others.   Reptiles transmit an estimated 74,000 cases of salmonellosis to people in the United States annually (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention 2003).   This is why  the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (2008) warns “do not have a turtle in any household that includes children under five, the elderly, or people who have lowered natural resistance to disease due to pregnancy, cancer, chemotherapy, organ transplants, diabetes, liver problems or other diseases.”

Salmonella is bacteria not seen by the naked eye. It can cause  a human disease called salmonellosis, a serious infection of the gastrointestinal tract. Many people think it is only a food-borne disease; but the truth is that salmonella also occurs naturally in reptiles, such as turtles.  Salmonella does not usually make these animals sick, though.   A mere look cannot tell if a turtle  carries salmonella or not.    In addition, a turtle that  tests negative for salmonella does not ensure that it is not infected. Turtles do not always shed salmonella.   The negative result  could mean the turtle did not shed salmonella when it was tested.

Taking this into consideration, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration issued a law in 1975 that prohibits the selling and distribution of turtles with shells less than four inches long.   According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “this has been so far the most effective public health action as it prevented an estimated 100,000 cases of salmonellosis each year in children”.   Nonetheless,  pet stores,  street vendors, online stores, and flea markets can get away with disregarding this four-inch rule easily.  The regulation exhibits ambiguity when it allowed these mini turtles to be sold for educational purposes.

Pet owners should, therefore, exercise proper care not only for their mini turtles, but also for themselves. This is to ensure a safe  and happy  turtle-keeping experience for you and all of your pet mini turtles.

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Also referred to as dormancy, turtles have different ways of hibernating. Moreover, turtles and tortoises can hibernate for a full eight months, depending on their location. Most tortoises and turtles hibernate for 10 to 20 weeks. The Desert Tortoises, Russian Tortoises, Box Turtles, Wood Turtles, Spotted Turtles, Snapping Turtles and Red Sliders are some of the commonly kept species that hibernate.

For water turtles, they go deep into the water, burrow themselves into the mud, and stay there for the whole hibernation turtle period. As they allow themselves to get cold, their bodies move more slowly and their heartbeats reduce in  rate.  They also stop breathing through their lungs.  Because of this process, they only require a small amount of oxygen. On the other hand, box turtles hibernate in winter, and require a separate area with sources of moisture, such as dirt and leaves.

Turtle keepers should make sure that their turtles are in good health and heavy (well feed) before hibernation. But do not be mistaken about the word “heavy”. Certainly, being heavy means being well-fed—not overfed. If the turtles are sick and thin, do not allow them to hibernate. If in doubt, do not let your turtle hibernate. It may risk the life of your turtle.

Vitamin A is essential for turtles, and is especially important during hibernation, as it becomes depleted. Vitamin A must be stored in your pet’s body tissues, fat, and liver, so the turtle can draw upon it while asleep. Feed your turtle with foods that are rich in Vitamin A, like  alfalfa, grated carrots, squash, peaches and apples (if omnivores).  If herbivores, let them eat  the drier, high-fiber weeds, such as  timothy hay, grasses, and alfalfa (preferable because this contains more protein) towards summer’s end, plus  some squash and carrots.

If your turtle  hibernates outdoors, be absolutely sure it has drinking water available .  Moreover,  do not let it hibernate  in a location where rain can either wet it, to the point the turtle gets chilled, or drown it.   Observe the hibernation spot regularly.

More importantly,  ensure that the proper temperature is achieved.  It  must be between 35°F to 50°F, where 40°F is most favorable.  If the temperature rises above 50°F, turtles will not lie dormant.  Moreover, they may use more of their energy and go hungry.

How long do turtles hibernate, you ask? Small turtles can hibernate from 2 to 2.5 months, while bigger turtles can lie dormant for as long as 12 to 14 weeks.

Remember, this is just a basic turtle hibernation guide. For more specific hibernation rules or strategies for your specific type of turtle, ask a qualified veterinarian or do some research. This will help ensure proper hibernation for your turtle.

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